






Hey,
Ready for another update? Probably not because I've been so good keeping you updated recently. I'm pretty keen to get all the blogs about my trips out of the way and this will be the last. At least until next month.
One of my best mates since I was a little kid, Liam, has also been on an exchange programme in Argentina this year. We had always talked about meeting up and travelling together but for one reason or another it hadn't worked out. The opportunity came when his parents from New Zealand, who I also know really well, decided to take advantage of the fact that their son was in Argentina, and they came and visited. I squeezed my way into their travel plans hoping to ride their wave and be able to check a few things off my "Argentina to see/do" list. We had an awesome eight days making our way through the famous Iguazu waterfalls in the north down to the really cool, funky Buenos Aires.
So I get off the 26 hour bus ride from Mendoza to Corrientes to see Liam, Basil, Yvonne and Liam's host dad Jorge waiting for me. We spent a few minutes checking who was taller out of Liam and I. It's still pretty even. We then went back to this holiday house that was owned by a family friend of Liam's host family where I met his two host brothers, host sister and host mum. They were all really cool and we spent a couple of hours chatting and hanging out. The next day Liam and I got up and went for a swim in the river out the back of the house. The river was called the Parana river. I didn't sop to think whether it might be named after the fish that live in it. But nothing happened so sweet as. We got some pretty funny looks from the locals, the water was supposedly too cold for swimming but was warm by NZ standards. Afterwards we went into town and walked around, most things were closed because it was a public holiday but we went to a really nice cafe and ordered without really knowing what we were going to get. It's always a bit of a gamble whether a ham and cheese sandwich means two slices of fake white bread without crusts and really processed ham and cheese or a fresh croissant with big slices of ham and melted cheese. Win some, you lose some.
We then made our way down to the riverside which was, like many Argentine rivers and lakes, surrounded by rubbish without a rubbish bin in sight. There were a few people fishing and one of them caught a fish, saw us watching him, put his cigarette in the fish's mouth and held it up for all of us to see, much to the amusement of all his mates. We met up with the host family at a restaurant and had lunch to say our good-byes to Liam's host family before we took a bus to our next stop off. Argentines are generally very unpunctual people, the only thing that consistently stays to a schedule are the buses. This makes for very hectic departures, all just adds to the fun and excitement of it.
We arrived to this little town called San Ignacio at about 10 pm. It's known for being the home of a famous Argentine writer named Horacio Quiroga but more importantly the site of the Jesuit Missions. W e dropped our bags off at the hotel and went in search of something to eat. We found this typical little family restaurant and got our selves a table outside under a makeshift roof, which we found out worked really well, because it started to piss down. We ordered the typical meals, mainly a slab of meat and a salad but had a really enjoyable few hours chatting and laughing while the rain poured down on the street. In a short break in the rain we dashed back to the hotel and crashed for the night.
We spent a large part of the next day wondering around The missions which were really interesting but Basil, Liam and I were itching to get to the slightly more exciting waterfalls waiting just a few hours away. Us boys made a last minute attempt to see Horacio Quiroga's house which turned out to be a lot further away than all the signs and information people (who you'd think would be right about that kind of stuff) had told us. Anyways we got there and had to turn around again and run back to the bus stop to catch the bus to Puerto Iguazu.
After a long, hot bus ride we found our hotel and settled in. It was a cool little hotel, nice and big. Great place to set up base for the next few days. We got up early the next morning and caught a bus to the much-awaited waterfalls. Certainly lived up to expectations. We passed the day walking around seeing these larger than life cascades from all the different angles. We managed to fit all the different pathways in but the definite highlight for me was this boat trip we went on. About 20 of us climbed into this speed boat and the driver took us around the waterfalls doing cool little spins and turns. He even took us directly under one of the waterfalls which I was so not expecting. What a buzz. There was a man taking video with a special water-proof camera and because we were right at the front most of the video is of us. We ended up buying the DVD which has a bout 20 minutes of us on the boat and an hour of some guy that hardly speaks English talking about the waterfalls. It's pretty cool though. After an action packed day we went to this restaurant where in an attempt to convince us to eat there the waiter said that if we didn't like the food we didn't have to pay. Turned out to be really nice but again the same standard dishes.
The waterfalls mark the border between Argentina and Brazil. There is a lot of debate about which side is better. We decided to see both sides so on the second day we took a bus to the city of Foz Do Iguazu in Brazil. We just winged it by going to Brazil. After a strange sort experience at the customs station we got off the beaten tourist track and ended up going to the city instead of the Brazilian side of the waterfalls in search of an ATM. I loved Brazil straight away, but it made me realise how quickly I'd forgotten how hard it is not being able to speak the language. Eventually we got money out of an ATM and asked some random policeman how we get to falls. He ended up accompanying us to the bus stop, then he even got on the bus to make sure we were alright. Good luck getting that in Argentina. The Brazilian side was amazing as well. There were a lot more little animals running around an lots of signs in Portuguese, Spanish and something that resembled English. Another really cool day hanging around these awesome natural wonders and we headed back to the hotel.
That night we stumbled upon this really funky little restaurant and as soon as we entered we got really good vibes from the place. We sat down and Liam and I shared a pizza and this delicious stir fry which was a really nice change. As the night went on the stereo kept spitting out these great covers of famous rock and reggae songs. Bob Marley and Rolling Stones covers done in a jazz style by this woman with an amazing voice who in my imagination is really gorgeous. After dinner I asked the waiter if we could buy the CD and at first they said no so I offered to go back to the hotel and bring my laptop so I could copy the CD instead. They were still reluctant for some reason but eventually they came round to the idea. So Liam and I raced back to the hotel and brought the laptop back just in time for desert. Turned out to be a great success, we got the gorgeous lady music, had a chat with the waiters and before leaving singed our names in chalk on the walls.
Yvonne and Basil had brought with them a bag of NZ memorabilia from my Dad to give away as presents. Along with the presents he also sent 8 episodes of Outrageous Fortune that he'd been taping. We got back to the hotel and Liam and I decided to watch an episode of Outrageous Fortune which I was dying to see after everyone had been telling me how juicy this season is. We stayed up until 4 watching episode after episode as we couldn't stop. It was addictive and I kept waiting for the episode where Aurora would somehow come back from the dead. It was pretty tragic. What a great show.
The next day we had a lazy morning and at midday we caught a plane to Buenos Aires. Most people I had talked to had given me a bad impression of BA, dirty, dangerous but most of all just too many people. I LOVED IT. What an awesome big city. Full of culture and action. We dropped our bags at the hotel and without any destination in mind Liam and I set off walking. We had been walking for a while when we realised that the Pumas were playing against France. So we quickly found a bar and ordered a drink. There were quite a few people in the bar and as the game got more and more intense the bar grew noisier and noisier. Liam and I were by far the noisiest and rowdiest. Wasn't that a great game? Maybe it was the setting and the excitement of being in BA but I really enjoyed it. Especially when Chabal got the shit knocked out of him. Personally, that was my favourite part. We left the bar exhausted from all that cheering and made our way back to the hotel with a few stop offs at music and book stores.
Later on we went to a place called San Telmo which is a funky little neighbourhood full of lots of little stores with stoned hippies selling hand-made necklaces. We ate a pretty average meal but the cool vibes of the place made it not such a big deal. By the end of the night I was getting quite tired of constantly being hassled by beggars asking for euros and dollars every five seconds. It's pretty relentless a lot of the time. It was a cool little place all the same.
We spent the next day looking around shopping malls, each one of us bought some cool clothes and came away pretty pleased. I bought some pretty flash shoes and a pair of good jeans which I was in need of. Liam bought a really cool leather jacket and had a hard time finding shoes his size. It was funny seeing the reactions on the faces of the hundreds of shop keepers when he asked for size 47 shoes. It was kind of like "no sorry, we don't stock that size but try the circus." But eventually he did find some that looked really good and they weren't even big shiny Ronald McDonald red ones.
That night we did one of the must-dos of Buenos Aires and went to a live Tango show. It was much better than I expected. We sat down and had a good meal and watched these men swirl these gorgeous women around and do cool twisty things with their legs. I was pretty impressed. I could easily watch a lot more shows and I still don't think my eyes would be able to keep up with their legs.
We went back to the hotel and watched a few more outrageous episodes of Outrageous Fortune and crashed. The next day was Mothers Day and we went from market to market wandering around looking for hidden treasures. With the help of Yvonne and her trusty Lonely Planet guide book we found this really big market where we spent hours looking and wondering if you can get this is New Zealand and if so for how much. My best buy was a shot glass that had written on it, Buenos Fucking Aires. I don't know why but I thought it was real cool and it only cost like 4 pesos or something. After we'd finished with the market and Yvonne got conned into paying 30 pesos for a glass of cordial, (not to worry, happens to the best of us) we made our way over to the rich people cemetery which had heaps of dead people. Some were famous, but mostly it just rich people that wanted to be dead next to famous people. I think that makes sense.
After the dead people we took a taxi back to the hotel, squeezed a quick episode of OF in and headed to the big bus station where I had taken that first bus to Mendoza nine months before. As I sat on the bus I thought about the holiday I'd just been on and what a cool month I'd had. I still feel like there's so much left in Buenos Aires to explore and will definitely be going back there one day. But it was a fantastic few days at the end of an unforgettable trip. A trip full of exciting adventures, great food, Outrageous Fortune but most importantly the company, Liam, Basil and Yvonne. We had lots of interesting conversations and it was great hanging out with some Kiwis especially ones that I feel so close to. I had an awesome time with you guys, I cant thank you enough. Unforgettable. Until next time.
Harry